- Kraftworks Taphouse, 3 out of 4 stars, 241 Liberty St. NE
On a recent visit to Kraftworks Taphouse,my companion ordered a Manhattan as if it were a given.
"Well, of course I'm getting a Manhattan," she told me. "Liam's making it."
The Liam to which she was referring to was Liam Riddell,a co-owner and bartender at Kraftworks. Co-owner Karl Knudsonattests to Riddell's individual following, especially for his sense of humor and bartending prowess, but Riddell is not alone.
Kraftworks has characters, figureheads people grow to love or trust. Kitchen manager and chef Chris Wattsintroduced to Kraftworks his lime tomatillo avocado salsa, which has a following of its own. Knudson is the man behind the craft spirits, infusions such as watermelon vodka or cherry whiskey.Executive Chef Justin Miller,a Maven alum,is the man behindKraftworks' jaw-dropping macaroni and cheese.
Kraftworks' amalgamation of longstanding downtown Salem hard-hitters makes it a bar frequented by regulars, especially on the younger side. It's a place you may spot a prominent Salem artist, a huge hip-hop star (that's thanks to the third co-owner, Alex Kruse,who books the bar's gigs such as Blackalicious' Gift of Gab)or an almost intimidatingly large crowd of Willamette students. The bar is cluttered from behind the fan of interesting taps, and the bar is oddly dark, considering its array of rotating art that lines the walls. "The Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt" plays on silent while Of Montreal dominates the speakers.
Upon first glance, Kraftworks could almost blend in with the slew of taphouses and dives in downtown Salem, but not for long. Kraftworks quickly becomes a welcome haunt for those who appreciate easy-drinking craft co*cktails and well-made, casual bar food.
The drinks
Kraftworks identifies as a taphouse, and its beer selection is extensive and unique to others in town. Those who dislike the trend of headache-inducing hop bombs would probably prefer Kraftworks'list, which includes crowdpleasing stouts such as Old Rasputinand unique Saisons and sours including Wolf Tree's Marion Saison(I will never stop singing Wolf Tree's praises). The cider selection is particularly fun, with everything from Ace Pineappleto 2 Towns' Bad Apple.
That being said, the co*cktail bar is the hidden glory of Kraftworks, especially whenRiddellor Knudsonis running things. Both have distinctive styles;I know exactly what I'll find in a Riddelldrink or a Knudsondrink. Knudson's style is far more vintage-focused, speakeasy or mid-century co*cktailsrevamped with house-infused liqueurs.Riddell, with his dry sense of humor and delicate hand, will craft your go-to drink with precision and good taste, from a Manhattan to a gin and tonic.Riddell uses house-madebitters in his Manhattans, which he artfully stirs with ice (to chill without adding too much water) and serves in a coupe glass.
Head bartender Zaq Osbornworks on the classical,sophisticated infusions, like his walnut cognac and apple cinnamon whiskey. The bar has no co*cktail menu, but the special is usually a safe bet for those who want their bartender to run the show.
Salem now has Ale and Cider Trail
The food
The kitchen team at Kraftworks is run by two distinctly different chefs: Watts, a Brown's Townealum, focuses on barbecue hits such as his pulled pork,while the classically trained Millermasters the pastas and wings.The result: Bar food that's not too fancybut polished with housemade touches.
Carne asada tacos are a Salem favorite at Kraftworks, and it’s no wonder: The steak is marinated in pineapple, lime and light beer, as well as aromatics and cumin.Kick things up a notch with that famous jalapeno, tomatillo and avocado salsa. True confession: Once the tacos disappear, I catch myself digging a pinkie into the plastic cup to swab out the rest.
MORE: Read other Statesman Journal restaurant reviews.
The macaroni and cheese is a stunner here. With a satisfying yank, ribbons of cheese stretchclinging to the fork, but the majority of the sauce retains the texture of drinking chocolate, smooth and almost slurpable thanks to plenty of heavy cream. Beyond the texture, this macaroni and cheese is shockingly flavorful: A blend of cheeses, from the gorgonzola to parmesan, balances sharp flavors with nutty notes and a hint of roasted garlic and bacon that somehow doesn’t overpower or weigh down the dish. A little cherry tomato and red onions brightenup the topping, with a panko breading that adds textural balance. Boom: Every gal’s dream, the perfect macaroni and cheese.
The hot wings come with three possible sauces: buffalo, lemon pepper and habanero mango.The mango marinade is the showstopper, with just a hint of spice, sticky and satisfying. The flavor is oddly reminiscent of Portland's famous Pok Pok marinade, but I’m not sure why — perhaps it’s the presence of sweet fruit, like mango, or the subtle heat of the pepper. The meat itself is a bit dry; regardless, these wings still achieve that primal power of a good wing: Even the classiest diner will end up gnawing on a drumette.
Like the wings, sandwiches at Kraftworks are a sloppy affair, which after a few drinks is probably OK.A Philly Dip shrouded in Swiss with peppers and onion is a little too sweet on its own, but a dip of the jus brings it together.Brined pulled pork arrives saturated with a tastefulhouse-made barbecue sauce that allows the pork flavor to remain in play, but the sandwich's accouterments — pickles, tomato, onion—are probably unnecessary and increasingly inconvenient when the sandwich revolts and globs of pork drop at an alarming rate. A few drinks in, trying to devour these perpetually collapsing sandwiches would probably be hilarious. While sober, I end up eating with my hands in shame. Sturdier rolls would probably resolve this issue; how about a nice ciabatta?
Stuffed peppers also are bizarrebut still enticing. Think about the traditional stuffed pepper: Usually a bell, with rice and meat. An appetizer version may be a jalapeno with cream cheese, a piquillo with melty manchego or chorizo, warmed or charred in a broiler. The Kraftworks version, however, is a sweet cherry pepperstuffed with brie and wrapped in salami.Those are three very prominent flavors that don’t necessarily make sense. I couldn’t come to any sort of conclusion about my feelings. It’s definitely different than anything I’ve had.
That's what's fun about Kraftworks, though: Whatever you order, it stands out.
Email Brooke Jackson-Glidden brookejg@statesmanjournal.com or call 503-428-3528. Follow her on Twitter@jacksonglidden, or like her Facebook pagewww.facebook.com/BrookeJackson-Glidden.
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If you go
Kraftworks Taphouse: Three out of four stars
When:3 p.m. to 2:30 a.m. Mondays-Fridays and11 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Saturdays and Sundays
Where:241 Liberty St. NE
What to order: Macaroni and cheese, mango habanero wings, carne asada tacos
What you'll spend: $4 to $14 on food,$4 to $10 on drinks
For more information:503-339-7757orfacebook.com/kraftworkstaphouse
Other places for beer in Salem:
Dining Review: Victory Club is the place to be for brews
The Rock Boxx climbing gym to open The Crash Pad, an in-house taproom
Summer beer passport funds new home for single mother
Beyond the beer: Eat at these Salem breweries
Salem Ale Works moves into a new brewery
